Do-it-yourself local car painting. Local car painting: prices, reviews

2024 Author: Erin Ralphs | [email protected]. Last modified: 2024-02-19 11:42

A lot of trouble happens in the life of a motorist. Sometimes, after an unsuccessful parking maneuver, the consequences can be extremely unpleasant. But if you "caught" a scratch on the body of your iron friend, you should not be so upset. Local painting is exactly the type of repair that will allow you to avoid huge financial costs. However, it won't take up much of your time. Local car painting - what is it and what is the essence of these works? About this and not only in our today's article.

Characteristic

Local car painting is one of the most popular ways to eliminate paintwork deformations in various parts of the body. This service is provided by most Russian workshops for a very reasonable amount. To date, local paintingcar is a high-quality and complete repair of plastic and metal parts of the vehicle body using original paint and special equipment.

Where is this type of paintwork restoration used? Only those areas of the body are subjected to local painting, where the area of damage to the paintwork is relatively small and where paintwork materials can be qualitatively decomposed, with minimal use of putty. This can be any of the sections, for example, bumper, fenders, side doors, trunk lid, hood, sills and so on.

When should this type of repair not be applied?

Local car painting is effective only when the damage area of the part is less than 30 percent. Otherwise, this element is subject to a complete restoration. That is, the entire area of the part is re-painted and varnished to match the rest of the car body color. A local repair method is most often needed when removing minor damage, such as scratches, chips or small dents. In the latter case, the craftsmen use a special layer of putty (not to be confused with construction), which allows you to smooth out the deformation and return the damaged part to its original, original factory appearance.

Thus, local painting of a car body is a repair method in which most of the part remains with the factory paintwork and only up to 30 percent of its area is subjected to additional painting.

Work technology

It is worth noting that thisthe type of restoration includes the same steps as with a full body painting. The difference lies only in the scale of the work performed. So, local painting of a car part consists of the following steps:

• Preparation. First of all, the part is subjected to mechanical cleaning and degreasing. First, the surface of the element is thoroughly washed with a soapy solution, then it is blown under pressure and, finally, it is treated with a chemical degreaser (white alcohol, for example). At this stage, the part is completely freed from particles of dirt, dust, various s alts and grease stains.
• Putty. Previously, the part is ground with coarse and fine-grained sandpaper. Next, the master performs repeated degreasing and blowing the surface. This is necessary in order to clean the surface of the element from small metal burrs. Often the part is puttied in several layers. But it all depends on the depth of the dent. For example, if it is a chip from a pebble, it is enough to apply one thin layer here.
• Fitting and leveling the surface. The dried puttied part is processed with abrasive materials (sandpaper), polished and thoroughly blown.
• Primer. After fitting, the surface of the site is treated with several layers of soil. Most often, the part is covered in 3 layers. At the same time, each of them dries before applying the next.
• Processing the primed area. Here, as in previous cases, the part is blown and re-degreased. Sometimes specialists use abrasive materials for better smoothing andfit.
• Painting. This is the final stage of work. After completing all of the above steps, the part is painted. Most often it is applied in 2-3 layers, then dried and varnished. If the paint was chosen correctly (that is, clearly according to the serial number), this area of \u200b\u200bthe body will not have any traces of restoration, recesses, stains and roughness.

As a result, we get a quality result - the car looks like before again, without any dents and chips.

What are the advantages of local car painting?

Reviews from car enthusiasts say that this type of restoration work has a lot of advantages compared to full painting, and even more so using the so-called "scratch removal pencils". Firstly, it is the speed of work. If a full painting takes at least 4-5 days, then a local one can be done in 2-3 hours, depending on the scale of the paintwork deformations. Secondly, it is the high quality of work. If, after using the pencil, the damaged surface remains rough and rough to the touch and deformed in appearance, then local painting will not give rise to such statements.

In fact, the deformed area undergoes a complete restoration, and it is almost impossible to distinguish it from the factory one. Thirdly, it is the cost of repair. Unlike full, this type of painting is ten times cheaper, which will save enougha large amount of money. By the way, local restoration of some parts of the body in the workshop is sometimes even cheaper than a pack of pencils to remove scratches. But we will talk about the cost of work later, and in conclusion, we note about the advantages that this method of painting allows you to keep the factory paintwork of the body on the part as much as possible. In addition, when selling a car, you do not have to prove that this car has previously been involved in an accident.

How do you locally paint a car with your own hands?

Do-it-yourself partial painting of a car is a job that does not require many financial waste. But at the same time, you will have to be patient and attentive. Above, we described all the stages of carrying out these works, so you should not have serious problems with this operation. So let's get to work.

Do-it-yourself local car painting - site inspection

First of all, we take a good look at the damaged area on the body. We also note that in addition to one scratch, you can find a lot of other deformations in the form of chips, microcracks, etc. Of course, they will not be concentrated in one place. All of them are evenly scattered throughout the body, but to a greater extent they are found on the thresholds and the front bumper (especially its lower part). These are the most vulnerable places to damage. Therefore, having carefully examined the body around the entire perimeter, we mark all the deformed areas. Having removed all the chips and scratches at once, you will no longer think about how else you could restore the rest of the damage. In addition, the appearance of your caras close as possible to the original, and this is a considerable plus.

Important point: before inspecting the car for other deformations, wash it thoroughly. So you will be more likely to see microcracks hidden under a layer of dust and repair them in time.

Dismantling

If the deformation has occurred in hard-to-repair places, such as door handles or in places near emblems, inscriptions and moldings, it is recommended to remove them during work. Pasting these areas with adhesive tape does not always save, because after the final chord of painting it leaves a clear stripe that gives out the painted part. Therefore, if possible, remove these elements so as not to be disappointed in the final result.

Alignment

Next, you need to align the part. This is not a mandatory operation and it is done only if the area is deformed very strongly. After processing the metal with sandpaper, smooth the surface with a layer of putty. Next is re-processing with sandpaper. But this should be done only after the putty has completely dried, that is, after 30-60 minutes. Do not forget about the sequence - first coarse, then fine-grained paper. After the primer is applied in one or more layers.

Painting

There are two ways to paint a part - using a spray gun and acrylic paint, or using a can of nitro enamel.

In the last caseit is important not to miscalculate with the shade number. The exact paint code is embossed on the car body. According to him, you should choose nitro enamel. As for the choice of varnish, it can be anything. The main thing - designed for body surfaces and without any shade.

Polishing

After the final stage, it is recommended to perform a one-time abrasive polishing. The main thing is to wait until the paint is completely dry. Otherwise, you will have to repeat everything again. Often nitro paint dries after 1 hour, acrylic after 3-4 hours. After that, it is recommended to apply a layer of protective polish, which will add shine to the details and smooth out the transition between the factory paintwork and the restored one.

Assembly

At the end of the work, it is necessary to reinstall the removed elements. As for the moldings, if the factory adhesive lags behind, you can use double-sided tape or apply a tool like "Moment" or "Liquid Nails".

Workshop cost

How much does local car painting cost in Kyiv? On average, the restoration of body parts starts at 200-250 hryvnia. The most expensive is the restoration of the trunk lid, hood and roof. Here the price can reach 500 hryvnia. In Moscow, they take several times more for the same work. For example, local painting of a car in the South-Western Administrative District (in the South-Western Administrative District) will cost 2.8-12 thousand rubles. The cost depends on the level of reputation of the service station and the scale of the work performed.

Conclusion

So, we found out what local car painting is. The price for it, in contrast to the full painting of the part, is 40-50 percent lower.

At the same time, it is quite possible to perform this operation with your own hands. The main thing is to have theoretical knowledge and the necessary set of materials, the main of which is paint. Its number must necessarily match the code in the plate on the body of your car. Otherwise, there is a big risk of painting out of tone with the factory paintwork.